The Land of Enchantment

December’s heavy wind and rain pounded Northern California recently, delaying progress on our tattered Golden Gate hillside property. But we are grateful to our crackerjack team who is nimbly choreographing the step-by-step gritty, muddy, dirty transformation despite the inclement weather. However, I am seriously in need of a dose of beauty and light.

Lights and Luminaries

Historical Eastside
Historical Eastside

London, Paris and New York are indeed dazzling at this time of year, but Northern New Mexico has an enchantment all its own that looks, tastes and smells like no other. During the holidays tiny sparkling lights are clustered around ancient openings of mud and straw on the historic eastside of Santa Fe. Luminarias – brown paper bags embedded with fat, glowing candles – appear at sunset whimsically perched on flat and curvaceous adobe walls – and the combination of lights, candles, and undulating mud and straw is absolutely magical.

The Plaza Lights
The Plaza Lights

What could be more captivating and mystical than witnessing ageless trees with trunks and branches wrapped in an array of teeny blue, green, gold, pink, purple and white lights?  People gather to celebrate the holidays gazing at strings of sparkling lights that connect with high desert stars above the grand, centuries-old Santa Fe Plaza.

Inn of Loretto
Inn of Loretto

Walking distance from the Plaza, luminarias line the angular edges of the multi-level historic Inn of Loretto. Built in 1853 as a Catholic school for girls by the Sisters of Loretto, the luminous paper bags resembling rustic crowns of light draw the eye to the dramatic adobe structure at the corner of the Old Santa Fe Trail and The Alameda.

Sacred Spirit of Santa Fe

The Cathedral Basilica of St Francis of Assisi
The Cathedral Basilica of St Francis of Assisi

Founded in 1610, Santa Fe means Holy Faith in Spanish. The first church was built that same year on the site where the Cathedral stands today a block from the Santa Fe Plaza.

Saint Francis of Assisi
Saint Francis of Assisi

The adobe Cathedral was rebuilt in 1714 by Spaniards and named in honor of Saint Francis of Assisi, Patron Saint of Santa Fe, who loved nature and animals.

Monumental Altar Screen
Monumental Altar Screen

The current Cathedral was recreated out of stone in 1887 around the previous adobe structure which was broken into pieces and carried out the front door. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the stone church, a Monumental Altar Screen was installed depicting famous saints of North and South America in 1987.

Hotel St Francis

Lobby of the St Francis Hotel
Lobby of the St Francis Hotel

Two blocks from the Cathedral is the St Francis Hotel built in 1924. The spacious lobby of this century-old guesthouse displays a stately wrought iron chandelier suspended over an elaborate carved stone fountain surrounded by glowing candles. The interior design echoes the esthetic of Spanish missionaries arriving in New Mexico in the 17th century, known to live simple, uncluttered lives. The hotel authentically reflects this philosophy in its rustic yet engaging minimalist décor.

Flavors and Aromas of Santa Fe

La Fonda on the Plaza
La Fonda on the Plaza

La Fonda on the Plaza, a revered national treasure in Santa Fe’s rich tapestry of hospitality, predates American independence.  Originally dating back to the early 1600s, Hotel La Fonda was reconstructed ten decades ago in 1922. People throughout the world journey here to admire the architectural style and details of the celebrated adobe as well as the vibrant and eclectic La Plazuela restaurant on the 1920’s patio. The aromas and flavors of time worn recipes used in traditional New Mexican cuisine make the 100-year-old restaurant one of the town’s most sought after dining venues.

Red and Green Chiles
Red and Green Chiles

In the fall, primitive wire cages hand turned over beds of simmering coals at the Railyard farmer’s market and grocery store parking lots, permeating the high desert air with the enticing smell of locally grown Hatch green and red chiles. Speak up when asked at any restaurant in town if you want red or green chile.  Or, enthusiastically declare “Christmas” like the locals do if you prefer both.

Piñon Burning
Piñon Burning

One of my favorite experiences in the fall and winter in Northern New Mexico is inhaling the earthy fragrance of burning piñon from indoor and outdoor fireplaces. Piñon wood made from the local piñon, or pine, trees is the signature firewood of Santa Fe due to its aromatic mountain essence and clean burning ability. Seated are my friends and clients, Katie and Charlie, who live in Washington DC, enjoying the smell of piñon burning in the outdoor fireplace we added at their second home in Santa Fe.

Art

Taos Artist Jim Wagner
Taos Artist Jim Wagner

During multiple trips to the Southwest, I was privileged to meet and represent wildly talented artist – Jim Wagner, who lived and painted in Taos for 60 years. Sadly, Jim passed last summer but will be remembered through his whimsical art that appeared in galleries from Malibu to Manhattan. Jim Wagner, An American Artist by Stephen Park, is a collectible coffee table book that pays tribute to Jim’s most captivating artwork during his lifetime in Taos.

Jones Walker Art Gallery
Jones Walker Art Gallery

In the summer of 2019, Marshall, Toby and I traveled to Taos, stopping at the Jones Walker Art Gallery that represented Jim Wagner’s current artwork. We were fortunate to purchase his last self-portrait, which we treasure.

Self Portrait of Jim Wagner
Self Portrait of Jim Wagner

We hung Self Portrait in a place of honor in Casita Alegria, our second home in New Mexico for 16 years. After selling our beloved casita last fall, we carefully stored the artwork until it can be shipped to California.  This is where Jim grew up and studied art before he left for Taos at age 21, encouraged by the illustrious artist Agnes Martin. Jim was awarded the New Mexico Governor’s Award for Excellence in the Arts in 2013. Art is the greatest expression of the human spirit and important to value in life.

 

Happy Holidays

May the spirit of Christmas and Hanukkah fill your dreams with visions of beauty and light. We wish you, your family and animals a joyous Feliz Navidad!!

 

XOX,

Linda, Marhsall, and Tobywan-Kenobe

Showing 10 comments
  • Janice Weickum
    Reply

    Happy Holidays to all of you. Beautiful post…the holiday season is one of the things I miss most about Northern New Mexico. Nothing quite like luminarias and the smell of pinon smoke in the crisp mountain air!

  • Sue Lennon Berry
    Reply

    Beautiful article, as always! Great to see Charlie’s picture! Neither of you has changed since high school!

  • Kirby Kendrick
    Reply

    Thanks for taking us with you Linda on this lovely sojourn to Santa Fe at Christmas!

  • Kerry Enright
    Reply

    I can smell that piñon now. Happy Holidaze Linda! Hope to see you at Casa Stulos. Xox

  • Rochelle Morris
    Reply

    Thank you for sharing. These pictures bring home to my heart the solemnity of Christmas.

  • Jeff Lamoree
    Reply

    Thanks for the update, happy holidays, enjoy🌲

  • Yvonne Danelle Carpenter
    Reply

    Jim Wagner’s art reminds me of some of the folk-art we have in Arkansas. Thanks for all the bright and colorful lights. It gave me a little lift in the insane world we are living in right now.

    Hope you and all your family have a Joyful and Blessed Christmas.

    Danelle

  • jeanette m. johnson
    Reply

    Dear Linda: Merry Christmas and a blessed New Year with great adventures. I now have a faux kiva made for me by precious friends from my church. i never thought this would happen. In the front opening are a set of 3 flickering candles….batteries. I am so blessed. Face book is really hard to get on and the cell phones in Ok. Kansas and Missouri are having problems. I have followed your life for some time, cherish everyone’s comments. I now have a small Jesus with two children statue in my tiny space by my apartment at Legacy Park in Stillwater. God is so good. The world is so tough. Still writing my weekly column for The Journal in Perkins, OK. Love Jeanette

  • Kay Criley
    Reply

    What a magical Land of Enchantment you have recreated, Linda, in your blog! The luminaries, candles and lights fill my soul with the joy of Christmas. Thank you for this magical tour of Santa Fe. (Love the “family picture” with your treasured self-portrait of Jim Wagner❣️)
    Abiding love, friendship and Christmas joy to you, Marshall and Tobywan-Kenobe🎄

  • Lynn
    Reply

    A feast for the eyes, Linda! We’ve had many dark dreary days here so the light and color you’ve concentrated here is a delight in so many ways. I was especially taken with the section on Jim Wagner, what a gifted artist! I wish you and Toby and Marshall a wonderful new year full of joy and happiness.

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Pumpkin displayView of San Francisco